Sewing in leather goods: when tradition and sustainability are connected by nothing more than a thread…
Stitching is the heart and soul of every piece, as it ensures its durability. Let’s explore the tools and the crown jewel of artisanal sewing: the famous saddle stitch.
Essential sewing tools
The claws
Before you even start sewing, you need to prepare. The claws are used to mark the leather by creating a row of small, evenly spaced indentations.
The awl
An awl, with its fine, sharp tip, pierces the leather at the marks left by the claw.
Its diamond-shaped tip creates an opening that allows the thread to pass through without damaging the leather fibers.
The needles
Unlike standard needles, those used in leatherwork do not have a sharp point (it is the awl that pierces the material).
They therefore guide the thread without risking damage to the leather.
Two needles are used simultaneously in saddle stitching.
The thread
Made of linen and treated with beeswax before sewing, the thread must be strong and slightly stiff.
The sewing clip
It’s impossible to hold the leather with one hand and sew with the other. A sewing clamp, or “saddler’s clamp,” holds the piece firmly in place.
It frees up both my hands so I can sew with both needles at the same time.
The saddle stitch: the hallmark of French leather goods
Originating in saddlery workshops long ago, at a time when the strength of a stitch was a matter of safety, the saddle stitch has become the hallmark of French artisanal leather goods.
It is made entirely by hand, using two needles and a single strand of thread. Each needle is threaded through the same hole in opposite directions.
This results in —a loop that feeds back on itself and becomes virtually impossible to break.
Its advantages:
Extremely durable: often, the leather will give way before the stitching does.
Elegant appearance: uniform, delicate, and distinctive.
Durability: Unlike machine stitching (which breaks if the thread is cut), saddle stitching stays in place even if a stitch is damaged.
