How do I choose my leather?
When crafting a leather goods item, we don't just choose a design—we also select the raw material.
This choice is crucial because every piece of leather is different.
Here is a truly beautiful aged leather from a French tannery I frequently work with. It has a fine grain, a smooth texture, and excellent dye absorption.
What are the desired characteristics?
Stiffness: Some leathers are supple and better suited for items that require flexibility, while others are stiff and provide excellent structure for structured pieces. The choice depends on the desired look or the intended use of the item.
Thickness: Thicker leather is more sturdy and durable. On the other hand, thin leather is ideal for small, elegant pieces and requires greater precision.
Ability to absorb dye: Natural vegetable-tanned leather, for example, is particularly prized for its ability to absorb color. Its open grain allows for deep, nuanced dyeing, making it ideal for artisanal patinas. And every piece of leather is unique, with pores that are more or less visible and tight, and traces of the animal’s life that are more or less present: every detail matters when making your choice.
The ability to develop a patina over time: Leather changes and ages gracefully at varying rates. With use, its color deepens and its luster develops.
Features of the tannery
Leather is also judged by its origin and the craftsmanship of its tannery:
Respect for animal welfare: High-quality leather always comes from a supply chain where animals are treated well, and hides are obtained as byproducts of the food industry, not produced at the expense of the animals.
The quality of the tanning process: There are various methods, but vegetable tanning remains the most authentic and sought-after. It uses natural extracts from plants and trees, which give the leather its ability to age gracefully.
That’s why, whenever I test a new type of leather, the first thing I do is smell it.
Well-tanned leather immediately releases an incredible array of scents. You can sometimes detect notes of oak, mimosa, or other plants used during the tanning process.
I work exclusively with vegetable-tanned leathers sourced from French or Italian tanneries to ensure quality and durability.
